Table 3.
Reliability and validity measures for upper limb and finger strength tests.
| Upper limb and finger strength | Measured variable | Reliability | Construct validity (correlation with self-reported climbing ability) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dead hang (14, 15, 25, 27, 31–34, 54, 62–64, 80–93) | Finger iso. ME | Inter-session: ICC = .13—>.99 (14, 81–83), CV% = 18.0 (14), CV% = 23.4–29.9 (83), CV% = 12.8 (82) | r = -.26 –.87 (27, 62, 81, 83, 85, 87, 88); r = .90 –.93 (84) |
| Finger iso. inter. ME | Inter-session: ICC = .97 (80); r = .86 (34) | – | |
| Finger iso. MS | inter-session: ICC = .93 –.99 (81, 82), CV% = 7.8 (82) | r = .58 –.84 (81, 83) | |
| Finger iso. ME/MS | – | – | |
| Bent arm hang (3, 6, 14, 15, 30, 31, 46, 54, 63, 64, 82, 84, 94–99) | Upper limb + finger iso. SE/MS | Inter-session: ICC = .89, CV% = 15.0 (14); r = .97 –.99 (15) |
r = .23—>.80 (15, 84, 94, 99) r = .77 (6)+ |
| Pull-up (3, 7, 14, 31, 33, 46, 53, 54, 83, 85, 87, 89, 94, 95, 97, 100–106) | Upper limb con. MS | Inter-session: ICC = .84 –.99, CV% = 1.0–6.62 (100) | – |
| Upper limb ESE | – | – | |
| Upper limb con.-ecc. ME | Intra-session: ICC = .97, CV% = 14.0 (14) Inter-session: ICC = .96 –.99 (14, 102), CV% = 14.0 (14) |
r = .08 –.72 (83, 94) | |
| Upper limb + finger con.-ecc. MSE | – | – | |
| Upper limb + finger iso. MS | – | – | |
| Upper limb iso. ES and Upper limb + finger MS | Intra-session: ICC = .88 –.99, CV% = 9.1–12.9 (103) | r = .61 –.77 (85) | |
| Pinch a dynamometer (3, 6, 24, 94, 95, 97, 102, 107–110) | Pinch/pincer iso. MS | Intra-session: r > .99 (108) |
r = .22 –.59 (94, 109, 110); r = .77 (6, 95); CCC = .99 (107) r = .77 (6)+ (performance on multiple routes combined) |
| Grip a hand dynamometer (3, 4, 6, 24, 34, 38, 45–47, 49, 56, 57, 61, 62, 65, 73, 75, 80, 83–85, 94–97, 99, 109, 111–129) | Hand iso. MS | Intra-session: ICC≤.97 (4, 117), CV% = 3.2 (4) Inter-session: ICC = .91 –.98 (80, 112) Intra-rater: ICC = .88 (118) |
r = -.96 –.72 (24, 73, 94, 95, 99, 121, 123) r = .77 (6)+; r = -.97—-.88 (24)+; r = .11 (121)+ |
| Hand iso. ES | – | – | |
| Hand iso. MS + ES | Intra-session: ICC = .94 –.99, CV% = 3.79–22.96 (115) Inter-session: ICC = .83 –.98, CV% = 4–6 (119) |
– | |
| Hand iso. ME | – | r = .76 (6)+ | |
| Hand inter. iso. MSE | Inter-session: ICC = .93, CV% = 3.2 (4) | r = -.60 (62) | |
| Apply force on hold (2, 7–9, 14, 15, 24, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 47, 54, 90, 93, 96, 99, 101, 105, 106, 109, 110, 117, 122, 130–155) | Finger iso. ES + MS | Intra-session: ICC = .21 –.99 (130, 140), CV% = 2.64–28.34 (140) Inter-session: ICC = .40 –.94 (130); 0.60 < r < 0.80 (140) |
r = .65-.76 (130) |
| Finger iso. (inter.) ME | Intra-session (sus + inter): ICC = .85 –.92 (138) Inter session (inter): ICC = .29–91 (130, 142), CV%<2.5 (142) |
Sus: r = -.26 –.72 (110, 138, 156); d = .44–1.47 (41); r = .76 (41) Inter: r = —27 –.19 (156); d = .07 –.33 (41); r = .65 (41) |
|
| Finger iso. (inter.) MSE/CF | Intra-session (sus): ICC = .85 –.92 (138) Inter session (sus): ICC = .92 –.94 (130); (inter):.87 –.96 (132) |
Sus: r = 80 –.82 (138, 156); r = .65–73 (130) Inter: r = .60 (99); r = .51 –.78 (132) |
|
| Finger iso. (inter.) MS | Inter-session (sus): ICC = .88 –.92 (96, 130, 144), CV% = 2.2 (96); r = .88 –.99 (136, 143) Intra-session (sus): ICC = .97 –.98 (117); r = .88 –.95 (136, 138); Cronbach's alpha = .99 (110) |
Sus: r = -.96 –.81 (2, 24, 99, 110, 136, 138, 144, 156); r = .04 –.92 (41, 95, 130, 131, 134, 147) r = -.94—-.77 (24)+, r = .43 –.67 (131)+ |
|
| Finger + wrist con.-ecc. MS | – | r = .57 (133) | |
| Power-slap test (4, 14, 31, 32, 53, 54, 112, 134, 157, 158) | Upper limb con. ES | Intra-session: ICC = .98, CV%<4.89 (157) Inter-session: ICC = .95 –.98 (14, 112, 157, 158), CV%<4.89 (157), CV%=7.0 (14) |
r = .69 –.73 (14, 157, 158) |
| Upper limb con. ESE | – | – | |
| Medicine ball throw (31, 112) | Upper limb ES | Inter-session: ICC = .96 (112) | – |
| Elbow strength tests (159) | Upper limb MS | – | r = .51 –.63 (159) |
| Biceps strength test (95) | Biceps MS | – | r = .29 –.45 (95) |
| Shoulder strength test (6, 160) | Shoulder con.-ecc. MS | – | – |
| Shoulder con. MS | – | r = 0.77 (6)+ | |
| Push-ups (31) | Upper limb ESE | – | – |
| Campus board performance (39, 53) | Upper limb ESE | – | – |
| Arm jump test (161) | Upper limb (ecc.)-con. ES | – | – |
| Bench press (4) | Upper limb con. ES + MS | – | – |
| Pull down (63, 64) | Upper limb con.-ecc. MSE | – | – |
| Traction test (139) | Upper limb con. ES | – | – |
| Upper limb con.-ecc. ME | – | – |
CF, critical force; MS, maximum strength; ME, muscular endurance; ES, explosive strength; MSE, maximum strength endurance; ESE, explosive strength endurance; iso., isometric; con., concentric; ecc., eccentric; sus, sustained contraction; inter, intermittent contraction; CV, coefficient of variation; +, criterion validity (correlation with climbing performance test scores).