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. 2024 Jun 13;10(2):e156. doi: 10.1097/JW9.0000000000000156

Table 1.

List of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams: composition and mechanism of action

Active ingredient What are they? How do they work?
Retinoids
Retinols
Retinol esters
Retinaldehyde
A class of chemical compounds that are composed of, derived from, or structurally or functionally similar to vitamin A Increase collagen content
Normalizes elastic tissue organization
Stimulate fibroblast growth potential
Vitamin C
Ascorbyl palmitate Magnesium ascorbyl-phosphate
l-ascorbic acid
Most abundant antioxidant available in human skin Neutralizes oxidative stress
Cofactor for collagen synthesis
Regeneration of oxidized forms of vitamin E
Vitamine E
a-tocopherol
Lipid-soluble antioxidant
(not synthesized by humans, dependent on external intake)
Acts as scavenger for free radicals and lipid peroxyl radicals
Peptides
Palmitoyl-KTTKS
Idebenone
Short sequences of amino acids that compose the building blocks for proteins Support dermal fibroblasts
Stimulate collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production
Ceramides Lipid component of the stratum corneum Connect the corneocytes of the stratum corneum, essential for forming a waterproof barrier and repair. Prohibit water-bound molecules from freezing or evaporating
Hyaluronic acid Nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan found in extracellular matrix Maintains water reserve, turgor and gaps within extracellular matrix
Caffeine Purine alkaloid found naturally in many beverages, such as tea and coffee Acts as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory agent. Promotes apoptosis of damaged cells. Increases skin elasticity and enhances skin barrier function by decreasing TEWL
Niacinamide Water-soluble amide isotype of vitamin B3 Inhibits IL-1, PARP-1, and TNF-α. Antioxidant effects through polyadenosine diphosphate-ribose polymerase inhibition and melanosome transfer inhibition. Improves facial elasticity and decreases wrinkles

TNF-α, tumor necrosis factor-α.