Table 1.
Active ingredient | What are they? | How do they work? |
---|---|---|
Retinoids Retinols Retinol esters Retinaldehyde |
A class of chemical compounds that are composed of, derived from, or structurally or functionally similar to vitamin A | Increase collagen content Normalizes elastic tissue organization Stimulate fibroblast growth potential |
Vitamin C Ascorbyl palmitate Magnesium ascorbyl-phosphate l-ascorbic acid |
Most abundant antioxidant available in human skin | Neutralizes oxidative stress Cofactor for collagen synthesis Regeneration of oxidized forms of vitamin E |
Vitamine E a-tocopherol |
Lipid-soluble antioxidant (not synthesized by humans, dependent on external intake) |
Acts as scavenger for free radicals and lipid peroxyl radicals |
Peptides Palmitoyl-KTTKS Idebenone |
Short sequences of amino acids that compose the building blocks for proteins | Support dermal fibroblasts Stimulate collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production |
Ceramides | Lipid component of the stratum corneum | Connect the corneocytes of the stratum corneum, essential for forming a waterproof barrier and repair. Prohibit water-bound molecules from freezing or evaporating |
Hyaluronic acid | Nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan found in extracellular matrix | Maintains water reserve, turgor and gaps within extracellular matrix |
Caffeine | Purine alkaloid found naturally in many beverages, such as tea and coffee | Acts as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory agent. Promotes apoptosis of damaged cells. Increases skin elasticity and enhances skin barrier function by decreasing TEWL |
Niacinamide | Water-soluble amide isotype of vitamin B3 | Inhibits IL-1, PARP-1, and TNF-α. Antioxidant effects through polyadenosine diphosphate-ribose polymerase inhibition and melanosome transfer inhibition. Improves facial elasticity and decreases wrinkles |
TNF-α, tumor necrosis factor-α.