Table 1.

Formulation for wave generation and dissipation (11)

Process	Formula	Variable
Wind generation		k: wave number;
		σ = 2π/T (T = wave period);
		ρa: air density;
		ρw: water density;
		cd ≅ 0.0012 drag coefficient;
		U: the wind speed in m/s;
		f: wave frequency (f = 1/T);
		δ: angle between wind and wave vector;
		c = σ/k wave celerity
Bottom friction		H: significant wave height;
		Y: water depth;
		cbf = 0.015
White capping		γ integral wave-steepness parameter, (γ = Eσ4/g2);
		γPM = 4.57 × 10−3: theoretical value of γ for a Pearson–Moskowitz spectrum;
		cwc = 3.33 × 10−5
Breaking		Hmax = 0.78 Y, maximum wave height;
		Qb: breaking probability
Wave-induced bottom shear stress		D50 = 20-μm median grain diameter