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. 2012 Dec 28;13(1):463–483. doi: 10.3390/s130100463

Table 1.

Correspondence between attributes/reference materials in the B-H database and descriptors in the H&R Fragrance Guide [17]. A substantivity index (SI) is calculated according to Equation (1) based on the frequency of occurrence of odor descriptors used to describe the top (NT), middle (NM) and base note (NB) of 820 commercial perfumes.

Attribute a p1 H&R Fragrance Guide Attribute a p1 H&R Fragrance Guide


Descriptor NT NM NB SI Descriptor NT NM NB SI
bergamot oil 0.341 bergamot 722 0 0 0 floral −0.010 floral 86 681 47 48
fresh 0.341 fresh 576 63 8 6 honey −0.064 honey 3 50 38 69
green 0.279 green 240 35 1 7 anisic −0.081 anise 50 11 0 9
watery 0.260 watery 0 1 0 cedarwood oil −0.124 cedarwood 0 159 364 85
lemon oil 0.189 lemon 401 1 0 0 woody −0.124 woody 3 166 305 82
citrusy 0.189 citrusy 57 0 0 0 civet absolute −0.142 civet 0 0 199 100
galbanum res. 0.180 galbanum 113 7 0 3 animal −0.142 castoreum 0 0 83 100
tart (dry) 0.180 dry 19 63 0 38 smoky −0.144 leathery 0 1 104 100
aldehyde 0.177 aldehydic 140 0 0 0 amber.+costuse −0.161 ambery 0 0 137 100
bay oil 0.165 bay 5 11 0 34 erogenic −0.161 sensual 0 0 70 100
lavender oil 0.128 lavender 204 26 0 6 eugenol −0.182 clove f 0 26 0 50
clary sage oil 0.126 clary sage 83 62 0 21 spicy −0.182 spicy 163 244 1 30
vegetable 0.126 herbaceous 165 7 2 3 patchouli oil −0.197 patchouli 0 136 253 83
fruity 0.085 fruity 151 24 3 8 vanillin −0.221 vanilla 0 0 301 100
fruity 0.085 peach b 149 7 0 2 olibanum res. −0.249 olibanum 0 3 117 99
fir needle oil 0.061 fir c 0 24 41 82 balsamic −0.249 balsamic 0 0 76 100
coniferous 0.061 pine c 1 87 0 49 sweet −0.280 sweet 0 50 157 88
peppermint oil 0.045 peppermint d 29 2 0 3 sweet −0.280 tonka g 0 1 287 100
oakmoss res. −0.008 oakmoss 0 0 139 100 musk+coumarin h −0.323 musk 0 0 698 100
earthy −0.008 mossy 0 0 252 100 powdery −0.323 powdery 0 0 376 100
jasmine absolute −0.010 jasmine 0 671 0 50 powdery −0.323 warm 0 0 137 100
a

Reference materials (in italics) and descriptors are listed by decreasing order of p1 (loadings in the formation of the first principal component). The term ‘res.’ stands for resinoid. The correspondence between descriptors and references used by Boelens & Haring [12] is indicated in Table 2.

b

Peach is the fruity descriptor most frequently encountered in the H&R guide.

c

Pine and fir trees are conifers and their essential oil smells alike.

d

Peppermint or spearmint.

e

Mixture of ambergris and costus oil.

f

Clove oil contains >85% of eugenol [25].

g

Tonka is the second attribute (after vanilla) most frequently associated to sweet in the H&R guide.

h

Mixture of musk ketone and coumarin.