Table 1.
Correspondence between attributes/reference materials in the B-H database and descriptors in the H&R Fragrance Guide [17]. A substantivity index (SI) is calculated according to Equation (1) based on the frequency of occurrence of odor descriptors used to describe the top (NT), middle (NM) and base note (NB) of 820 commercial perfumes.
Attribute a | p1 | H&R Fragrance Guide | Attribute a | p1 | H&R Fragrance Guide | ||||||||
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Descriptor | NT | NM | NB | SI | Descriptor | NT | NM | NB | SI | ||||
bergamot oil | 0.341 | bergamot | 722 | 0 | 0 | 0 | floral | −0.010 | floral | 86 | 681 | 47 | 48 |
fresh | 0.341 | fresh | 576 | 63 | 8 | 6 | honey | −0.064 | honey | 3 | 50 | 38 | 69 |
green | 0.279 | green | 240 | 35 | 1 | 7 | anisic | −0.081 | anise | 50 | 11 | 0 | 9 |
watery | 0.260 | watery | 0 | 1 | 0 | cedarwood oil | −0.124 | cedarwood | 0 | 159 | 364 | 85 | |
lemon oil | 0.189 | lemon | 401 | 1 | 0 | 0 | woody | −0.124 | woody | 3 | 166 | 305 | 82 |
citrusy | 0.189 | citrusy | 57 | 0 | 0 | 0 | civet absolute | −0.142 | civet | 0 | 0 | 199 | 100 |
galbanum res. | 0.180 | galbanum | 113 | 7 | 0 | 3 | animal | −0.142 | castoreum | 0 | 0 | 83 | 100 |
tart (dry) | 0.180 | dry | 19 | 63 | 0 | 38 | smoky | −0.144 | leathery | 0 | 1 | 104 | 100 |
aldehyde | 0.177 | aldehydic | 140 | 0 | 0 | 0 | amber.+costuse | −0.161 | ambery | 0 | 0 | 137 | 100 |
bay oil | 0.165 | bay | 5 | 11 | 0 | 34 | erogenic | −0.161 | sensual | 0 | 0 | 70 | 100 |
lavender oil | 0.128 | lavender | 204 | 26 | 0 | 6 | eugenol | −0.182 | clove f | 0 | 26 | 0 | 50 |
clary sage oil | 0.126 | clary sage | 83 | 62 | 0 | 21 | spicy | −0.182 | spicy | 163 | 244 | 1 | 30 |
vegetable | 0.126 | herbaceous | 165 | 7 | 2 | 3 | patchouli oil | −0.197 | patchouli | 0 | 136 | 253 | 83 |
fruity | 0.085 | fruity | 151 | 24 | 3 | 8 | vanillin | −0.221 | vanilla | 0 | 0 | 301 | 100 |
fruity | 0.085 | peach b | 149 | 7 | 0 | 2 | olibanum res. | −0.249 | olibanum | 0 | 3 | 117 | 99 |
fir needle oil | 0.061 | fir c | 0 | 24 | 41 | 82 | balsamic | −0.249 | balsamic | 0 | 0 | 76 | 100 |
coniferous | 0.061 | pine c | 1 | 87 | 0 | 49 | sweet | −0.280 | sweet | 0 | 50 | 157 | 88 |
peppermint oil | 0.045 | peppermint d | 29 | 2 | 0 | 3 | sweet | −0.280 | tonka g | 0 | 1 | 287 | 100 |
oakmoss res. | −0.008 | oakmoss | 0 | 0 | 139 | 100 | musk+coumarin h | −0.323 | musk | 0 | 0 | 698 | 100 |
earthy | −0.008 | mossy | 0 | 0 | 252 | 100 | powdery | −0.323 | powdery | 0 | 0 | 376 | 100 |
jasmine absolute | −0.010 | jasmine | 0 | 671 | 0 | 50 | powdery | −0.323 | warm | 0 | 0 | 137 | 100 |
Reference materials (in italics) and descriptors are listed by decreasing order of p1 (loadings in the formation of the first principal component). The term ‘res.’ stands for resinoid. The correspondence between descriptors and references used by Boelens & Haring [12] is indicated in Table 2.
Peach is the fruity descriptor most frequently encountered in the H&R guide.
Pine and fir trees are conifers and their essential oil smells alike.
Peppermint or spearmint.
Mixture of ambergris and costus oil.
Clove oil contains >85% of eugenol [25].
Tonka is the second attribute (after vanilla) most frequently associated to sweet in the H&R guide.
Mixture of musk ketone and coumarin.