TABLE 1.

Cutaneous use of protease formulations: Implications and outcomes

SKIN CLEANSERS12

Proteases incorporated to degrade protein in “skin dirt” comprised primarily of desquamated corneocytes (i.e., keratin) and sweat proteins. Degraded protein fragments are more amenable to removal by detergent component of cleansers.

Low specificity proteases optimal for cleansing due to multiple protein types on skin surface

Chemical modifications of proteases allowing for improved stabilization have led to advances which improve the ability to incorporate these agents into skin cleanser formulations. Such modifications may also reduce cutaneous irritancy.

LEAVE-ON FORMULATIONS13

Proteases shown to reduce visible skin scaling and dryness

Induction of desquamation by various proteases including those from plant and bacterial sources

Broad-specificity proteases may be optimal for promotion of desquamation (generalized proteolysis effect).

Some proteases may induce desmolysis (corneodesmosome degradation).

Proteases applied topically may improve efficacy of conventional moisturizers (visual dryness reduction).

Enzyme encapsulation technologies increase stability by circumventing protease lysis and denaturation by high water content of lotions/creams.

Augmented reduction in mean dryness score shown with addition of protease as compared to base moisturizer (control without protease)

Topically applied proteases shown to rapidly reduce visual skin scaling and visible signs of xerosis

Rational to incorporate together specific proteases using a stable technology that releases and delivers the protease ingredient or blend of proteases with a well-designed moisturizer/barrier repair topical formulation