Almond oil |
An oil expressed from bitter almonds, rich in vitamin D and E |
Maintain skin elasticity and hydration |
N/A |
N/A |
26
|
Centella Asiatica extract |
A small herbaceous plant of the Mackinlayaceae family native to the wetlands in Asia |
Prevents progression and appearance of SD, stimulates cell production and fibroblasts in SD. |
Human fibroblast cells, human dermal fibroblasts |
Stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis of collagen and fibronectin |
3, 4, 5, 6
|
Chamomile |
A European plant of the daisy family |
N/A |
Human skin |
Reduction in skin itch and irritation |
43
|
Cocoa butter |
A fatty substance obtained from cocoa beans |
Reduce hyperpigmentation and moisturizing effects although no significant effects on SD noted |
N/A |
N/A |
28, 29
|
Coconut oil |
A fatty oil obtained from the flesh of the coconut |
N/A |
Atopic dermatitis |
Anti‐inflammatory properties, increase in skin capacitance in human, rats |
13, 14
|
Collagen‐elastin hydrolysates |
A combination of collagen and elastin by breaking down the molecular bonds |
N/A |
Biomaterials for tissue regeneration, rabbit skin |
Promotes cell adhesion |
8, 9
|
Crowberry |
A fruit which contains mostly water and is a species of empetrum (an evergreen plant) |
N/A |
Anthocyanins in crowberry |
Strong antioxidant properties |
10
|
Darutoside |
A botanical ingredient from the plant siegesbeckia orientalis |
Proposed to improve skin elasticity and more regular alignment of collagen matrix |
N/A |
N/A |
No studies found |
Glycine soja |
A plant in the legume family which contains significant amounts of amino acids and proteins |
N/A |
Porcine pancreatic elastase and human leucocyte elastase and human study comparing anti‐wrinkle cosmetics |
Stimulates collagen production |
23, 24
|
Hepapeptide‐7 |
A synthetic peptide consisting of arginine, asparagine, glycine, isoleucine and methionine |
N/A |
Menopausal skin |
Promotes keratinocyte proliferation |
31
|
Hyaluronic acid |
A viscous fluid carbohydrate present in connective tissue and synovial fluid |
N/A |
Facial dermatitis |
Hydration and anti‐inflammatory effects |
35, 36
|
Licorice extract |
Extracted from the root of the licorice plant |
N/A |
Human skin |
Helps to reduce pigmentation although can cause leucoderma effects |
32
|
Lupin seed extract |
A genus of flowering plant in the legume family |
N/A |
Rats |
No beneficial effects |
2
|
Marine collagen |
This is a fibrous protein extracted from the scales of saltwater fish |
N/A |
Human skin |
Stimulates skin cells and improves extra‐cellular matrixand photo ageing |
37, 38
|
Marine elastin |
This is obtained by hydrolysed enzymatic from connective tissue of some fish species |
N/A |
Human skin |
Improves elasticity and photo ageing effects |
37, 38
|
Meadowfoam seed oil |
An edible seed oil, extracted from the seeds of meadowfoam (Seeds contain 20–30% oil and contains over 98% long chain fatty acids) |
N/A |
Activated meadowfoam seed oil |
Potential uses as a bioherbicide |
30
|
NIA‐114™ molecule |
A molecule which delivers Niacin (Vitamin B3) (a water‐soluble micronutrient) to skin cells |
N/A |
Actinic keratosis |
Stimulates DNA repair, promotes release of leptin, stimulates a receptor to decrease hyperpigmentation |
1
|
Olive oil |
An oil obtained from olives |
Rich in vitamin E and softens the skin, although clinical trials demonstrate no effect. |
N/A |
N/A |
11, 12
|
Palm oil |
An oil from the fruit of the West African oil palm |
N/A |
Human malignant melanoma |
Suppresses melanoma cell proliferation |
15
|
Registril |
A combination of Phaseolus lunatus (green bean extract) and rutin (from fruits and berries) |
Proposed to stimulate production of fibroblasts and collagen |
N/A |
N/A |
No studies found |
Resveratrol |
A polyphenol compound found in certain plants and has antioxidant properties |
N/A |
Human keratinocytes and guinea pig skin |
Inhibits keratinocyte proliferation |
33, 34
|
Retinyl palmitate |
An ester of retinol and palmitic acid and is considered to be a milder form of vitamin A |
N/A |
Skin ageing |
Increases cell production and enhances skin metabolic rate |
22
|
Shea butter |
A fatty substance obtained from the nuts of a shea tree |
N/A |
Keloid fibroblasts |
Reduces actively proliferating keloid fibroblasts |
27
|
Siegesbeckia |
A species of plant native to eastern Asia used in traditional medicine |
N/A |
Siegesbeckia pubescens and wound healing properties in mice |
Increases rate of wound contraction and anti‐inflammatory agent |
16, 17
|
Silicon dioxide |
A chemical compound which is a dioxide of silicone (a hard, unreactive, colourless compound) |
Hydration and oxygen transmission |
Scars |
Hydration and oxygen transmission |
25
|
Tamanu oil |
An oil which is pressed from nuts which yield 70–75% of inedible oil |
N/A |
Human skin – contact dermatitis |
Anti‐inflammatory and antioxidant properties |
39
|
Tocopherol acetate |
An ester of acetic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E) |
N/A |
Human cadaveric skin |
Contains antioxidant activity and non‐irritant to skin |
7
|
Tretinoin |
A preparation of retinoic acid |
Increases collagen production |
N/A |
N/A |
18, 19, 20, 21
|
Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) |
Pantothenic acid is a water‐soluble vitamin from the B group of vitamins |
N/A |
Healthy human volunteers |
Promotes cell growth and differentiation |
41
|
Vitamin E |
A group of lipid‐soluble 3 compounds that include tocopherols and tocotrienols |
N/A |
Nanofibrous mats |
Antioxidant and skin barrier stabilizer |
42
|
Wheat germ oil |
This is extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel and is high in octacosanol |
N/A |
Human hyperkeratotic skin conditions |
Anti‐inflammatory properties |
40
|