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. 2017 Dec;15(3-4):75–87. doi: 10.3121/cmr.2017.1363

Table 1.

Moisturizers mechanism of action1,6,9,12

Emollients Humectants Occlusives Protein Rejuvenators
Mechanism of action Saturated & unsaturated hydrocarbons with variable length which improves skin barrier function, membrane fluidity and cell signaling, resulting in overall improvement of skin texture and appearance. Often combined with emulsifier Low molecular substances in majority, with capability to attract water into stratum corneum. Frequently used with other compounds which may retain the water content Consist of oils and waxes, forming an inactive layer on the skin surface to physically block water evaporation from the skin (transepidermal water loss) Small molecular weight proteins, believed to aid skin rejuvenation by replenishing skin’s essential proteins
Indication Routine skin care, dry and rough skin, papulosquamous skin disease Xerosis, ichthyosis Prevention of contact dermatitis, xerosis, atopic dermatitis Photodamaged skin, skin rejuvenation
Adverse effect Contact irritation (seldom) Irritation (lactic acid, urea) Oily application, cosmetically disagreeable, folliculitis (mineral oil), contact dermatitis (lanolin), acneiform eruption Contact dermatitis
Substance Fatty acids, fatty alcohols, cholesterol, squalene, pseudoceramides Urea, sorbitol, panthenol, glycerol, propylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids Mineral oil, petroleum jelly, beeswax, silicones, zinc oxide Collagen, elastin, keratin