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. 2017 Dec;15(3-4):75–87. doi: 10.3121/cmr.2017.1363

Table 4.

Various kinds of moisturizer formulations10,19, 20

Classification Lotions Creams Ointments Gel
Phase Oil in water (O/W) Water in oil (W/O) (hydrophobic) or O/W (hydrophilic) W/O (hydrophobic)/ or O/W (hydrophilic) Hydrophobic or hydrophilic
Preparation O/W prepared with emulsifiers to enhance spread ability O/W creams are prepared at elevated temperature, followed by reduction to room temperature for internal phase to solidify oil and water (50% each) Does not contain enough water to separate into second phase at room temperature. Most contain 80% oil and 20% water Has liquid phase in a three dimensional polymeric matrix with physical or sometimes chemical cross linkage with appropriate gelling agent
Composition Oil, Water, Propylene glycol W/O: emulsifier such as monoglycerides, sorbitan esters and wool fat
O/W: emulsifying agents such as sodium or triethanolamine soaps, sulfated fatty alcohols and polysorbates. When necessary may be combined with W/O emulsifying agents
W/O: water insoluble hydrocarbons such as paraffin, vegetable oil, animal fats, waxes, synthetic glycerides and polyalkysiloxanes
O/W: mixtures of liquid and solid polyethylene glycols (macrogols)
Hydrophobic gel (oleogel): Liquid paraffin with polyethylene or fatty oils gelled with colloidal silica, alumunium, or zinc soaps
Hydrophilic gel (hydrogel): water, glycerol or propylene glycol gelled with suitable agents such as tragacanth, starch, derivatives of cellulose, carboxy vinyl polymers and magnesium/alumunium silicates
Properties Non greasy, thinner, easily spreads to cover large areas Esthetic. Made of heavier lipids Greasy, glossy look following application
Forming skin’s protective layer, particularly useful in low humidity (< 60%) environment
Smooth finishing, non oily, non comedogenic, absorbs easily
Usage Daytime moisturizer for face and body. After shave lotions, for application on hairy areas Night time moisturizers for face hand, and non hairy body parts
To use when no occlusive effect is required
Particularly beneficial when high degree of occlusive is required; Contraindicated for intertriginous and moisture bearing areas To be used in intertriginous areas, easily absorbed, high acceptability for face, non comedogenic

O/W, oil in water; W/O, water in oil