Table 3.

The skincare-related functions associated with the 52 candidate medicinal herbs.

No.	Candidate herb	Expected skin- related function	Reported skincare-related efficacy
1	Achyranthis Radix	Tonification	Achyranthes bidentata polysaccharide (ABP) and Lycium barbarum polysaccharide (LBP) inhibited nonenzymic glycation in a D-galactose- induced model of mouse aging; ABP was more effective than LBP.23
2	Aconiti Lateralis Radix Preparata	Tonification, Anti-inflammation	None. * Not an appropriate cosmetic ingredient (safety concerns).
3	Acori Graminei Rhizoma	Whitening	An Acorus gramineus extract inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis.24
4	Alpiniae Katsumadai Semen	Anti-inflammation	An Alpinia katsumadai Hayata methanol extract reduced house dust mite-induced atopic dermatitis in NC/Nga mice.25
5	Alpiniae Officinari Rhizoma	Tonification	An 80% (v/v) aqueous acetone extract from rhizomes of Alpinia officinarum inhibited melanogenesis in mice with theophylline-stimulated murine B16 melanomas.26
6	Amomi Tsao-ko Fructus	Whitening	Catechins and catechol derivatives from the fruit of Amomum tsao-ko exhibited strong DPPH radical-scavenging and antioxidant activities.
		Anti-inflammation	2,8-decadiene-110-diol from Amomum tsao-ko extract inhibited the production of nitric oxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 by downregulating NO synthase and COX-2 expression.10
7	Arisaematis Rhizoma	Anti-inflammation	None. * Not an appropriate cosmetic ingredient (safety concerns).
8	Asini Corii Colla	Whitening	None.
9	Asparagi Tuber	Anti-Aging	An aqueous extract of Aasparagus cochinchinensis (Lour.) Merr. shoots exhibited strong radical-scavenging capacities in vivo and in vitro.27
10	Astragali Radix	Anti-inflammation	Astragalus sinicus L. may ameliorate chronic inflammatory skin diseases by virtue of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities; the material regulated intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production; the NF-κB, JAK/STAT, and PI3/Akt signaling cascades; and immune responses.28
11	Atractylodis Rhizoma Alba	Tonification, Anti-inflammation	A compound from rhizomes of A. macrocephala inhibited NO production in a dose-dependent manner.29
12	Cervi Parvum Cornu	Tonification	A pharmacopuncture solution of Cervi Pantotrichum Cornu inhibited elastase activity and exhibited DPPH free radical-scavenging capacity30
13	Chrysanthemi Flos	Whitening	Methanol and water extracts of Chrysanthemum indicum dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity; the effects of the methanol extract were similar to those of kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor.31
14	Cinnamomi Cortex	Anti-inflammation	Cinnamomum cassia bark that had undergone solid-state fermentation by Phellinus baumii reduced IL-31 expression in DNFB-treated C57BL/6 mice.32
15	Cinnamomi Ramulus	Hydration	Cinnamomum cassia extract inhibited the development of atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice by suppressing the T-helper 2 cell response.33
16	Cistanches Herba	Tonification	A phenylethanoid-rich extract from Cistanche deserticola exhibited antifatigue activity.34
17	Crotonis Semen	Anti-inflammation	Deep facial peeling using a mixture of low concentrations of phenol and croton oil improved wrinkles, eyelid tightening, and skin pigmentation.35 * Not an appropriate cosmetic ingredient (safety concerns).
18	Curcumae longae Rhizoma	Anti-inflammation	A hot-water extract of Curcuma longa significantly inhibited UVB-induced increases in tumor necrosis factor (TNF) α and interleukin (IL)-1β at the mRNA and protein levels.36
19	Cuscutae Semen	Anti-Aging	An ethanol extract of Cuscuta chinensis exhibited antioxidant activity37
20	Cyperi Rhizoma	Anti-inflammation	Valencene (VAL) from Cyperus rotundus inhibited TNF-α/IFN-γ-induced activation of NF-κB.38
21	Dioscoreae Rhizoma	Tonification	An extract of aerial bulblets of Dioscorea japonica Thunb inhibited NF-κB and MAPK signaling in RAW 264.7 cells.39
22	Dolichoris Semen	Whitening	None.
23	Eucommiae Cortex	Tonification	Pretreatment with aucubin from Eucommia ulmoides suppressed UVB- induced oxidative stress in the HaCaT cell line 40
24	Euphorbiae Kansui Radix	Anti-Aging	None * Not an appropriate cosmetic ingredient (safety concerns).
25	Gastrodiae Rhizoma	Hydration	4-hydroxybenzaldehyde accelerated acute wound-healing via activation of focal adhesion signaling in keratinocytes.41
26	Ginseng Radix	Tonification	Panax ginseng berry/gold nanoparticles exhibited radical-scavenging, whitening, and moisture-retention activities 42
		Anti-Aging	Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer root extract (PGRE) activated the human COL1A2 promoter in a concentration-dependent manner. Human Type I procollagen synthesis was also induced by PGRE.15
27	Gypsum Fibrosum	Anti-inflammation	Byakko-ka-ninjin-to (BN) (a prescription composed of the root of anemarrhena, ginseng, licorice, and rice) inhibited itchiness in an NC mouse model of atopic dermatitis.43
28	Hoelen	Tonification	Hoelen significantly inhibited melanin synthesis via the inhibition of TRP‐2 expression.44
29	Hordei Fructus Germinatus	Whitening	A compound isolated from young green barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) inhibited melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells.45
30	Inulae Flos	Whitening	Sesquiterpenes from Inula britannica inhibited melanin synthesis by suppressing tyrosinase expression via ERK and Akt signaling.46
31	Jujubae Fructus	Anti-inflammation	An essential oil from Zizyphus jujube inhibited skin inflammation in an animal model.47
32	Liriopis Tuber	Anti-Aging	Application of 0.5% (w/v) retinol, bakuchiol, an Ophiopogon japonica root extract cream, and 30% (w/v) vitamin C improved skin firmness and reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.48
33	Lycii Fructus	Anti-Aging	Mice consuming goji berry (Lycium barbarum) juice were protected from UV radiation-induced skin damage via an antioxidant pathway16
34	Lycii Radicis Cortex	Anti-Aging	Lycium barbarum polysaccharide protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced photo-damage.49
35	Magnoliae Cortex	Anti-inflammation	Magnoliae Cortex exerted an anti-inflammatory effect on Porphyromonas gingivalis-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells.50
36	Massa Medicata Fermentata	Tonification	Triticum aestivum L. exerted protective effects in an experimental animal model of chronic fatigue syndrome.51
		Whitening	Triticum aestivum sprout extract attenuated 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in mice and chemokine expression in human keratinocytes.52
37	Morindae Radix	Tonification	Polysaccharides from the roots of Morinda officinalis exhibited anti-fatigue effects in mice.53 A methanol extract of the roots of Morinda officinalis exhibited anti-inflammatory and antinociceptive activities, inhibiting iNOS, COX-2, and TNF-α expression by downregulating NF-κB binding activity.54
38	Mume Fructus	Anti-Aging	A Prunus mume extract exhibited a DPPH free radical-scavenging effect.55
39	Nelumbinis Semen	Anti-Aging	Nelumbo nucifera leaf protected against UVB-induced wrinkle formation and loss of subcutaneous fat by suppressing MCP3, IL-6, and IL-8 expression.18
40	Osterici Radix	Hydration	An aqueous extract of Rhizoma notopterygii inhibited contact sensitivity by decreasing cytokine localization at the inflammation site; the extract also downregulated matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity.56
41	Perillae Follium	Anti-inflammation	Luteolin from perilla (Perilla frutescens L.) inhibited the secretion of inflammatory cytokines including IL-1β and TNF-α from human mast cells.57
42	Persicae Semen	Anti-inflammation	Topical or oral administration of peach flower extract attenuated UV-induced epidermal thickening, MMP-13 expression, and pro-inflammatory cytokine production in the skin of hairless mice.58
43	Piperis Longi Fructus	Anti-inflammation	Piperlonguminine from Piper longum inhibited melanin production in melanoma B16 cells.59
44	Plantaginis Semen	Hydration	Plantamajoside from Plantago asiatica inhibited UVB- and advanced glycation end-products-induced MMP-1 expression by suppressing the MAPK and NF-κB pathways in HaCaT cells.60
45	Polygalae Radix	Tonification	Polygala tenuifolia extract significantly inhibited HMC-1 cell degranulation and alleviated IMO stress-exacerbated atopic dermatitis symptoms by modulating the PKA/p38 MAPK signaling pathway.61
46	Polyporus	Hydration	Polyporus sclerotium exhibited anti-UV activity; this ranked second among 25 herbs evaluated.62
47	Raphani Semen	Anti-inflammation	Compounds from Raphanus sativus seeds inhibited NO production in lipopolysaccharide-activated BV-2 cells.63
48	Rehmanniae Radix	Anti-Aging	Topical application of Rehmannia glutinosa extract inhibited mite allergen-induced atopic dermatitis in NC/Nga mice.64
49	Schisandrae Fructus	Hydration	Schisandrin from the fruit of Schisandra chinensis exhibited anti-inflammatory properties.65
		Tonification	Deoxyschisandrin and schisandrin B, the two major lignans of Schisandra chinensis, protected HaCaT cells from UVB-induced cell death by antagonizing the UVB-mediated production of ROS and induction of DNA damage.66
50	Scutellariae Radix	Anti-inflammation	A Scutellaria baicalensis 80% (v/v) ethanol extract exhibited anti-allergic effects on inflammation both in vivo and in vitro.17
51	Succinum	Anti-inflammation	None.
52	Zingiberis Rhizoma	Tonification	A clinical trial enrolling 80 postmenopausal women showed that capsules containing 40 mg of Tribulus terrestris, 12.27 mg of Zingiber officinale, 3 mg of a Crocus sativus extract, and 11 mg of Cinnamomum zeylanicum improved menopausal symptoms.67