Table 2.
The benefits and potential adverse effects of botanical extracts used in cosmetic products associated with hyaluronic acid and HA derivates.
| Active Ingredient/Plant Species | Bioactive Components | Biological Role and Benefits for Skin | Toxicity of Topical Products |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acer saccharum | phenolic compounds (maplexins, ginnalins) [134,135] | increases the intracellular ceramide level stimulates the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes maintains thehomeostasis of the epidermis antioxidant capacity [134,136,137] |
* N |
|
Ahnfeltia concinna (red algae) |
polysaccharides (carrageenan, agar), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements [138,139,140] | antioxidant capacity, anti-wrinkle, skin-whitening (suppresses the melanin production), skin moisturizing [139,140,141,142] | not toxic in topical applications possible irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions [142] |
|
Alaria esculenta (brown algae) |
polyphenols, diterpenoids, fatty acids, polysaccharides, fucosterol, fucoxhantin (e.g., retinoic acid), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements [143,144,145] | hyperpigmentation amelioration increases skin firmness and elasticity stimulates collagen and keratin synthesis, reducing the progerin production (increased in aged skin) of ‘aged’ fibroblasts skin-whitening, antioxidant capacity [142,143,146,147] anti-cellulite and antiedema activity [142,148,149,150] |
possible local irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions [142] |
|
Aloe sp. (Aloe barbadensis) |
antraquinones, polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, organic acids [151,152,153,154] | antimicrobial activity [155,156] antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-pyrotic [156,157,158] improves skin moisture and water retention in the SC [153,156,157,159,160] |
phototoxicity, eczema, contact dermatitis [151,152] |
| Amaranthus caudatus | amino-acids, proteins, amylopectin, minerals, vitamins (vitamin A, E, K), fibers, essential fatty acids, triterpenes (squalene) [161,162] | antioxidant capacity, moisturizing, skin hydration, suppressing the pigmentation [162,163,164] | * N |
| Angelica keiskei | coumarins, terpens, phenolic compounds [165,166,167,168] | antioxidant capacity, astringent, emollient, skin conditioning and protecting, skin whitening and lightening, sunlight protection [165] | * N |
| Arnica montana | fatty acids (palmitic, linoleic, myristic), essential oil, triterpenic alcohols, sugars, phytosterols, phenol acids, tannins, choline, inulin, flavonoids, carotenoids, coumarins, sesquiterpene lactones [169,170] | anti-inflammatory effect [158,171] reduces the ecchymosis and oedema [158] |
contact dermatitis [169,172] rarely ocular irritation [170] |
| Artemia salina | diguanosine-tetraphosphate, D-myo-inosite-1,4,5-triphosphate, proteins, glucan [173] | stimulates skin regeneration, strengthens the immune system of the skin, sustains epidermal cell proliferation, anti-ageing (inhibiting the cells senescence, stimulating the collagen expression) and photo-protection effect [173] | * N |
| Bambusa arundinacea | flavonoids, phenolic compounds, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, 8-C-glucosyl apigenin, luteolin derivatives [174] | antioxidant capacity, anti-ageing, photo-protection, skin pigmentation modulating effect, anti-allergic effect (inhibiting the production of IgE and lymphocytes) [174] | * N |
| Calendula officinalis | triterpenes, polyphenolic compounds, polysaccharides, vitamin C, tocopherols, quinones, carotenoids saponins, sterols [175,176,177,178] | anti-inflammatory effect [175,179] cell rejuvenation effect [179,180] skin smoothing and softening effect [179] prevents skin alteration and early ageing (improving the skin elasticity) [176,180,181] anti-irritant, anti-psoriatic and callus treating [158] stimulates the regeneration and epithelisation of wounded skin [175,179,180,181] antioxidant capacity [175,176,179,180] antimicrobial activity [155,179] |
rare sensitization or allergic contact reactions [169,175,182] |
|
Camelia sp. (C. sinensis, C. japonica) |
polyphenols, catechins [176] | antioxidant capacity, reduces the sebum production, improves skin hydration, skin smoothing and softening, photoprotective, and anti-inflammatory effect [176,183,184,185,186,187] | contact dermatitis [172] |
| Chamomila recutita | polysaccharides, flavonoids (α-bisabolol, apigenin), sesquiterpene lactones [169,176] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [188] repairs the SC, wound healing, anti-ageing activity skin smoothing and softening, also being used in the treatment of eczema [176,188,189] |
skin sensitization, contact dermatitis [169,189,190] |
| Centella asiatica | saponins, flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, apigenil, naringenin, phenolic acids (chlorogenic acid), triterpenic steroids, amino acids, sugars [191,192] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing effect stimulates the fibroblast proliferation, increasing the collagen synthesis increases the SC hydration and the epidermal barrier function anti-cellulite effect [191,192] |
local allergic reactions, burning, eczemas, vesicles, pruritus [192] |
| Ceratonia siliqua | flavonoids, phytosterols, acids, esters, terpenoids, fenolic compounds [193,194,195] | anti-cellulite effect (increasing the aquaglyceroporines activity, stimulating lipolysis, reducing the localized fat overload), antioxidant capacity, depigmentation effect (anti-tyrosinase activity), skin lightening effect [193,194,196] | non-irritation potential [193] |
|
Citrus sp. (C. aurantium dulcis, C. grandis, C. limon, C. unshiu peel) |
bergapten, bergamotin, isopimpinellin, coumarins, psoralenes, angelical, volatile oil (limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, terpineol, terpinene, terpinolene, ocimene, pinene etc.) [197,198,199] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and anti-verrucous effect, used in acne treatment, wound healing properties, used as fragrance [158,197,198,199] | possible irritation, skin sensitization, hyperpigmentation, redness, oedema, photo-toxicity [197,198,199,200] |
| Cucumis sativus | flavonoids, saponins, sterols, carbohydrates, triterpenes, vitamins (C, B), fatty acid, proteins [201,202] | used in the treatment of periorbital edema, soothing emollient, anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, anti-itching effects depigmentant and antioxidant capacity, anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase actions [201] | erythema after semi occlusive patch testing and conjunctival hyperemia/ocular irritation after a using of an eye lotion containing 1% C. sativus (cucumber) fruit extract [202] |
| Cydonia oblonga seed | cellulose, polysaccharides, polyphenols [203,204] | stimulates fibroblasts proliferation, wound, and burns healing maintains skin barrier function anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and protective effects antioxidant capacity [203,204,205,206,207,208] |
* N |
| Eclipta prostrata | flavonoids (luteolin, apigenin), wedelolactone, terpenoids, sterols, alkaloids, volatile oils [209,210,211,212,213] | depigmentant effect (anti-tyrosinase activity) hair revitalizing, dye in cosmetic products antioxidant and photoprotective capacity [209,210,211,212] |
* N |
| Euphrasia officinalis | iridoids, flavonoids, polyphenols, saponins, alkaloids, tannins, etheric oils [214,215] | anti-inflammatory and astringent effect antioxidant capacity photo-protection, protective effect against photo-ageing, stimulates collagen synthesis [214,216,217] |
* N |
| Ficus carica | phytosterols, anthocyanins, amino acids, atty acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, volatile components [218,219] | antioxidant capacity, anti-warts and anti-verrucous activity used in the treatment of dry skin, eczema, acne anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and skin protection effects [158,218,219,220] |
no side effects observed [220] |
| Glycyrrhiza glabra | saponins (glycyrrhizin), flavonoids (liquiritigenin, liquiritin), glycosides, isoflavons (glabridin, coumarins, stilbenoids) [221,222] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, photo-protection effect reduces erythema and hyperpigmentation improves epidermal hydration and transepidermal water loss antibacterial and antifungal effect anti-dandruff effect [221,222,223,224] |
eye sensitivity (burning, itch, redness), scalp pruritus (itch, dandruff) [221] |
| Glycine max | phenolic acids (ferulic, syringic, sinapic, flavonoids (isoflavons), soy proteins (β-conglycinin, glycinin), lipids, vitamin E [225,226,227] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity skin lightening and depigmentant protective effect against photo-ageing stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, increasing the hyaluronic acid levels in aged skin skin regeneration effect, providing nutrients for cell renewal [225,226,227,228,229,230,231] |
none allergic reactions to human skin toxicity evaluation [226,232] itching eczema after several months of exposure to a soy-based ingredients in cosmetic lotions [233] |
| Hedera helix | saponins (hederin, hederagenin, hederacosides, hederacolchisides etc.), flavonoids, anthocyanins, coumarins and phenolic acids, steroids, vitamins, volatile and fixed oils [234] | antiseptic, anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase effect indicated in cellulitis, cicatrisation, and wound healing [158,234,235] | contact dermatitis [234] |
| Lilium candidum | saponins, flavonoids, glycosides, nitrogenous compounds [236,237] | amelioration of skin redness, burn healing, hyperpigmentation, edema/skin inflammation anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant effect, and also emollient and sebostatic effect capacity of reducing ecchymosis, providing keratinocytes proliferation [158,236,238,239] |
no irritations in vitro dermal or ocular irritation model [240] |
| Magnolia liliflora | terpenes, flavonoids, chlorogenic acid, rutin, quercetin, kaempferol, volatile oil (phenyethyl alcohol, levoxine, pinene, caryophyllene oxide, caryophyllene, bourbonene, farnesene, aerpineol, humulene) [241,242,243] | antioxidant capacity, anti-dermatophytes action, anti-inflammatory effect [241,242,243] | * N |
| Malus domestica/sylvestris | polyphenols (phloridizin, phloretin, quercetin, glycosides, rutin), acids (citric, malic, lactic, pyruvic, ascorbic etc.) [244,245,246] | confers cell protection, anti-ageing and photoprotective effect, antioxidant capacity increases moisture, reduces tyrosinase activity (depigmentation effect) [245,246,247,248] |
absence of skin irritation of a cosmetic product containing 6% Malus sylvestris fruit extract under 24 h occlusive patch testing [245] |
| Malva sylvestris | mucilaginous polysaccharides, tannins, polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin E, β-carotene, anthocyanidines, terpenes, naphthoquinones, flavonoids, fatty acids (e.g., α-linolenic acid) and minerals [158,249,250,251,252,253,254,255] | anti-pruritus, anti-psoriatic and antiseptic effect emollient, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial capacity wound healing (stimulates the formation of free granulation tissue and reepithelization) [158,249,250,251,252,253,255] |
low toxicity of Malva sylvestris hydro-alcoholic extract on topical application [256] |
| Nymphaea alba | polyphenols, flavonoids, essential oil, vitamin E, ellagitannins, sterols, fatty acids [257,258,259] | stimulates the autophagy (reduces the accumulation of advanced glycation end products which determine inflammatory response, destroys the protein structureand colors the skin in yellow or brown) antioxidant and photo-protection capacity reduces the hyperpigmentation [258,260] |
* N |
| Opuntia cochenillifera | flavonoids, terpenes, cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins, pectines, malic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, oligosaccharides (fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltose etc.), amino-acids, fatty-acids [261,262,263,264] | antioxidant capacity, immunomodulation, hydration and cooling effects, wound healing [262,263] | * N |
| Orchid sp. | flavonoids, anthocyanins, fatty acids, organic acids, sterols, stilbenoids (resveratrol), amino-acids [265,266,267] | anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity, inhibits collagenase and elastase photo-protection, wound healing capacity cooling agent astringent, anti-ageing, emollient, skin moisturizing and whitening effect [265,266,268,269] |
allergic contact dermatitis [270] |
| Pfaffia paniculata | saponins (pfaffosides), pfaffic acid, sterols, allantoin [236,271] | anti-inflammatory and anti-cellulite effect, antioxidant capacity, protective effect against photo-ageing [236,271] |
* N |
| Picea abies | diterpene, stilbene glycosides (E-astringin, E-isorhapontin, flavonoids (catechin, taxifolin, taxifolin-3′-O-glucoside), lignin (pinoresinol) phenolic acid derivates, saccharose [272,273] | antioxidant capacity, antibacterial activity inhibits collagenase (anti-ageing activity), elastase (anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and anti-psoriatic effect) and tyrosinase (whitening activity) wound healing and skin regeneration properties (cellular regeneration and epithelialization) [272,273,274,275,276] |
possible allergic skin reactions (e.g., contact dermatitis) [276] |
| Porphyridium cruentum | exopolysaccharide, phycoerythrins, phycoerythrocyanins, phycocyanins, sterols, superoxide dismutase, polyunsaturated fatty acids [277,278,279] | antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness effect restores skin barrier permeability, photo-protection, regenerative and anti-wrinkles effect natural dye for cosmetics (creams, powders, lipsticks, make-up, eye shadows) [278,279,280,281,282] |
* N |
| Ptychopetalum olacoides | fatty acids, saponins, flavonoids (rutin), sterols, aromatic oil, alkaloids, lupeol [236,283] | antioxidant capacity, anti-cellulite effect [236] |
* N |
| Punica granatum | anthocyanins, ellagic acid, tannins [176] | improves viscoelasticity, anti-ageing effect, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant capacity antimicrobial activity [176,284,285] |
no adverse effects [286] |
|
Rosa sp. (R. damascena, R. canina, R. centifolia, R. davurica, R. mosqueta, R. rugosa) |
carotenoids, sterols, anthocyanins, catechins, polyphenolic compounds (tocopherol), vitamin C, fatty acids (trans-retinoic acid, arachidonic acid, and unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids) [287,288] | anti-inflammatory effect (suppressing proinflammatory cytokines) [289,290,291,292] antibacterial against skin bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) [289,290,291,292,293] antioxidant capacity [290,292,294] antiproliferative and chemopreventive effects [290] fragrance in the perfumery industry [295] |
well tolerate [296] no toxicity on human keratinocyte HaCaT cells [289] contact dermatitis to Rosa mosqueta oil applied for 3 days [288] |
| Rosmarinus officinalis | triterpes (rosmarinic acid, oleanolic acid, ursolic acid) [172,297] | antioxidant capacity, photoprotective effect, anti-aging, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, increases skin elasticity, wrinkles reducing effect [157,297,298] |
eczema, contact dermatitis [172,299] |
| Rubus chamaemorus | ellagitannins, proanthocyanidins, fenolic acids, flavonoids, lignans, vitamin C, fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic etc.) [300] | antioxidant capacity antimicrobial effect (Staphylococcus aureus skin infections) reduces periorbital inflammations and ameliorates pruritus [300,301] |
no irritation after an 48 h occlusive patch testin of a cosmetic product incorporating 2.5% Rubus chamaemorus Seed Oil (25 μL testing product quantity) [302] |
| Saccharum officinarum | fatty acids, fatty alcohols, acids, esters, aldehydes, ketones, sterols, terpoides, phenolic acids, flavonoids (flavones glycosides) [303,304,305] | antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity photo-protection effect [304,305] |
low toxicity after in vitro cytotoxicity assay [304] |
| Sambucus nigra | phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, ferulic, rosmarinic), flavonoids (quercetin, rutin, kaempferol), anthocyanins, tannins, triterpenes, organic acids [306,307,308] | antioxidant capacity, reduces tyrosinase activity antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-psoriatic, photoprotective effects [306,307,308,309,310,311,312] | * N |
|
Sideritis sp. (S. perfoliata, S. raeseri) |
terpenes, phenolic compounds (flavonoids, phenylpropanid glycosides), tannins [313,314,315,316,317] | antioxidant capacity, anti-elastase, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (anti-wrinkle and depigmentation effect) anti-inflammatory and antibacterial capacity photo-protection effect [313,314,316,317] |
* N |
| Sophora japonica | flavonoids (rutin, quercetin etc.), tripterpenoids, alkaloids, saponins, polysaccharides [318,319,320] | antioxidant capacity, photo-protection, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (skin-whitening) [318,319,320,321] | * N |
| Triticum aestivum | oligosaccharides [322] | stimulates hyaluronan synthase, fibronectin synthesys, restores the skin barrier integrity (wound healing: decubitus ulcers, skin lesions and burns), anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [322,323,324,325] | possible hypersensitivity reactions [326] |
| Ulmus davidiana | saccharides (galactose, rhamnose, glucose), succinic acid, terpenoids (epifriedenalol), lignans, flavonoids (catechin) [327,328,329] | moisturizing, photoprotective, anti-ageing, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effect [327,328] | * N |
| Vaccinium myrtillus | anthocyanins (cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin), flavonoids, phenolic acids [330] | antioxidant capacity, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effect (anti-psoriatic, anti-erythematous), astringent properties, wound healing, restores and protects the skin barrier function [330,331,332,333,334,335] |
* N |
| Vitis vinifera | polyphenols (resveratrol, anthocyanins), coumarn, carotenoids, flavonoids, tartaric acid, tannins, terpene alcohols [336,337,338] | anti-ageing effect, antioxidant capacity, anti-melanogenic activities, sunscreen protection [157,176,338,339] |
allergic dermatitis [336,340] |
| Voandzeia subterranean | alkaloids, flavonoids, glycosides, saponins, steroids, triterpenoids, phenols, anthocyanins, carotenoids proteins, crude fiber, carbohydrates [341,342] |
anti-wrinkle effects, photoprotective, anti-irritant, anti-pollution, hydrating effects, antioxidant capacity, anti-ageing activity, inhibits proteases, elastases, collagenases and catalase [343] |
* N |
* N—No article reported.