Table 3.
Cosmetic RMs with Clinical Data That Act on HA
| RM | HA Activity | Clinical Benefit | Ref |
|---|---|---|---|
| JAD | ↑ HAS2 & HAS3 mRNA, No change in CD44 ↑ HA expression (3D model) |
Improvements in the appearance of wrinkles, texture, and pores | [148,149] |
| Tetrapeptide GEKG | ↑ HAS1 mRNA (primary human foreskin fibroblasts), ↑ HA expression (ex vivo IHC) | ↑41% elasticity on inner forearm, ↓42% skin wrinkle depth, ↓9.5% periorbital wrinkle | [150] |
| Peptide pal-KTTKS | ↑ HAS1 mRNA (primary human fibroblasts), ↑ HA expression (ex vivo IHC) | ↑36% elasticity on inner forearm ↓18% skin wrinkle depth |
[150] |
| Isosorbide dicaprylate | ↑ CD44 mRNA (3D model) | Improvement in skin hydration (34.5% for moderate dry skin and 133% for severe dry skin), 15% reduction in TEWL | [151] |
| N-acetylglucosamine | No effects on HAS-1/2/3 mRNA (HDF), ↑ HA synthesis (HDF) | Reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation | [152,153] |
| N-acetylcysteine | ↑ HAS and hyaluronidase mRNA (HDF) | Improvement in skin hydration Reduction in TEWL |
[154,155] |
| L-ascorbic acid | ↓ HAS2, CD44, HYAL1 & HYAL2 mRNA. No change in HAS1 and HAS3 mRNA (3D model) | Improvements in skin wrinkling and skin roughness | [156–158] |
| Retinoic acid and derivatives | ↑ Binding to HA promoter, ↑ CD44 expression, HA production (NEK) | Improvements in skin wrinkling, barrier function and hydration | [117,118,159] |
| Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate | ↑ HA expression (IHC, ex vivo skin) | Reduced redness and flattened scars | [160] |
| Sanguisorba officinalis root extract | ↑ HMW-HA synthesis (HDF) | Improved skin elasticity, reduced wrinkling | [161] |
| Isosorbide dicaprylate | ↑ CD44 mRNA (3D skin) | Improvement in skin hydration (34.5% for moderate dry skin and 133% for severe dry skin) | [151] |
| HA5 | ↑ HAS mRNA | Improvements in fine lines/wrinkles, tactile roughness, and skin hydration | [162] |
| TRMT | ↑ HAS mRNA, ↓ Hyaluronidase mRNA (Human Epidermis) | Improvements in fine lines/wrinkles, brightness, texture and hydration | [163] |
Notes: ↑ denotes increase in expression; ↓ a decrease; 3D skin denotes data obtained in 3D reconstructed skin models; IHC denotes immunohistochemistry; HDF denotes Human Dermal Fibroblasts; NEK denotes Normal Human Primary Keratinocytes.