Table 3.
Commonly used ingredients in cosmeceuticals
| Class | Examples | Function | Reference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sunscreens | Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, ecamsule, avobenzone, octocrylene, p-aminobenzoic acid, dioxybenzone, etc | Protect against skin tumors and increase reactive oxygen species | (Shanbhag et al. 2019)(Wawrzynczak et al. 2016) |
| Antioxidants | Α-lipoic acid, vitamin C, B3, E, N-Acetyl-glucosamine (NAG), and ubiquinone (CoQ10) | Antioxidants generate free radicals, which “mop up” and reduce inflammation and pigmentation. Protect skin against sun damage due to collagen breakdown or skin cancers | (Simo et al. 2014; Van Tran et al. 2019) |
| Hydroxy acids | α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), and β-hydroxy acids (BHAs) |
Known as “fruit acids,” they provide hydration to skin and promote shedding of dead skin, improve skin texture and signs of aging BHAs promote pores penetration and fats solubility |
|
| Retinoid | Tretinoin or retinoic acid, retinol, and retinaldehyde | Acts as skin repair from photodamaged skin and reduce fine line, excessive pigmentation, and wrinkles | (Sorg et al. 2006; Babamiri and Nassab 2010; Alamgir 2017) |
| Skin lightening agents | Hydroquinone, vitamin C, kojic acid, azelaic acid, licorine extract (glabridin) | Inhibit melanin production, act as a skin lightening agent and prevent skin discoloration | (Badreshia-Bansal and Draelos 2007)(Sarkar et al. 2013) |
| Botanicals | Plant extracts from leaves, roots, fruits, berries, stems, bark, and flowers. For example, soy, curcumin, silymarin, pycnogenol, ginkgo biloba, green tea extract, grape seed extract, aloe vera, witch hazel, allantoin, and ferulic acid | Antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and skin soothing agents | (Kumar 2017)(Campa and Baron 2018) |
| Peptides and proteins | Pentapeptide pal-KTTKS | Short-chain amino acids that imitate biological signals and accelerate/inhibit skin aging | (Husein el Hadmed and Castillo 2016)(Alamgir 2017) |
| Growth factors | Heparin‐binding endothelial growth factor, Fibroblast growth factor, types 1, 2, and 4, Platelet‐derived growth factor, Type‐1 insulin‐like growth factor | Important in wound healing and damage repair by stimulating collagen/elastin production | (Husein el Hadmed and Castillo 2016)(Alamgir 2017) |