Table 1.
Inter-rater reliability of the analyzed dependent variables used for load structure determination.
| Variables | ICC | 95% CI LL | 95% CI UL | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed | Start time | 0.90* | −0.01 | 1.00 |
| Number of actions upper limbs | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Number of actions lower limbs | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Contact time upper limbs | 0.98*** | 0.88 | 0.99 | |
| Contact time lower limbs | 0.93*** | 0.72 | 0.97 | |
| Reach time upper limbs | 0.89*** | 0.70 | 0.95 | |
| Reach time lower limbs | 0.92*** | 0.66 | 0.97 | |
| Bouldering | Number of attempts per boulder | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 |
| Successful attempt duration | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Non-successful attempt duration | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Climbing time per boulder | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Average attempt duration per boulder | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Observation time | 0.99*** | 0.91 | 1.00 | |
| Resting time between attempts | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Resting time per boulder | 1.00*** | 0.99 | 1.00 | |
| Resting time between boulders | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Ratio between climbing and resting time | 1.00*** | 0.99 | 1.00 | |
| Lead | Total climbing time | 0.99*** | 0.92 | 1.00 |
| Number of actions upper limbs | 0.97*** | 0.85 | 0.99 | |
| Number of actions lower limbs | 0.38 | −1.00 | 0.86 | |
| Contact time upper limbs | 0.99*** | 0.99 | 1.00 | |
| Contact time lower limbs | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Reach time upper limbs | 0.99*** | 0.99 | 1.00 | |
| Reach time upper limbs grapping only | 0.97*** | 0.96 | 0.98 | |
| Reach time lower limbs | 0.98*** | 0.98 | 0.97 | |
| Olympic combined | Resting times between runs in speed | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 |
| Resting time between speed and bouldering | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Resting time between bouldering and lead | 1.00** | 1.00 | 1.00 | |
| Total competition duration | 1.00*** | 1.00 | 1.00 |
*
p < 0.05,
**
p < 0.01,
***
p <0.001.