Summary
Background
Adverse skin reactions to skin care products have been increasing in recent years. However, these reactions have not been characterized well to date.
Objective
To describe symptoms, clinical signs and frequency of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face in males vs. females of various ages.
Patients and Methods
All outpatients diagnosed with adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face examined by dermatologists at Dermatology Hospital of Southern Medical University between November 1, 2016 and October 31, 2017, employing a questionnaire and interviewed by a dermatologist, were eligible. The association of adverse cutaneous reactions with age and gender was analyzed.
Results
A total of 433 outpatients, accounting for 0.12% of total outpatients, were assessed. Of these, 223 patients, including 204 females and 19 males, aged 4 to 75 years old, were eventually diagnosed with adverse reactions to skin care products on the face. Eighty-two per cent of patients experienced pruritus, while 80% showed erythema, and 48% visible swelling. The incidences of both xerosis and edema correlated positively with age, while acne-like lesions were negatively associated with age, but not with gender.
Conclusions
Our results indicate that pruritus, xerosis and erythema are common adverse cutaneous reactions to facial skin care products. These reactions vary with age, but not gender. Vigorous safety testing should precede marketing of skin care products.
Keywords: Skin care products, Inflammation, Adverse reactions, Age, Gender
1. Introduction
The use of skin care products is becoming more popular in China because of increased attention to beauty and health, as well as improvements in economic conditions. Meanwhile, the incidence of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products is also increasing, particularly over the last five years (1, 2). Moreover, recent studies indicate that even branded skin care products can cause severe adverse cutaneous reactions (3). While eczematous reactions account for 90% of these adverse reactions (4), a link between skin care products and an increased risk of breast cancer has been observed (5). The types of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products vary with the products. For example, certain skin care products can cause stinging and erythema within 30 min after topical application (6), while long-term use of anti-aging products that contain retinol and ascorbic acid can induce facial xerosis (7). Use of skin whitening formulations, such as hydroquinone-containing products, can induce acne-like lesions, eczema and irritant contact dermatitis (8–10). Moreover, hydroquinone–containing products can induce ochronosis mostly in patients with dark skin (11–13). Likewise, induction of burning and erythema by other depigmenting agents, such as azelaic acid and kojic acid, has also been documented (14,15). Even skin care product-induced toxic epidermal necrolysis has been reported (16). Finally, recent studies have demonstrated that certain infant skin care products can compromise epidermal functions, including epidermal permeability barrier, stratum corneum hydration and stratum corneum pH in murine skin (17), while potentially inducing contact dermatitis in humans (18).
Notably, evidence on adverse reactions to skin care products is from various case reports. Accordingly, the clinical characteristics of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products, particularly on the face, have not yet been systematically characterized. In addition, it is unknown whether adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products vary with age and gender. In the present study, we characterize the clinical and demographic features of 223 Chinese patients with adverse skin facial cosmetics.
2. Patients and Methods
All outpatients presenting with skin disorders were evaluated by dermatologists at the Department of Aesthetics, Dermatology Hospital of Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China between November 1, 2016 and October 31, 2017. The diagnosis of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care (cosmetic) products was made according to the national “General Guideline: Diagnostic Criteria and Principles of Management of Skin Diseases Induced by Cosmetics”, established by State Health Department, China (GB17149.1-7-1997). Patients with above diagnosis were further interviewed and examined in person by dermatologists, according a standardized questionnaire. GraphPad Prism 4 software was used for all statistical analyses. Two-sided Chi-square test was used to determine significance. Data are expressed as mean ± standard error of the mean (SEM).
3. Results
A total of 367,679 outpatients attended the clinics of the Dermatology Hospital of Southern Medical University during the one-year study period. Over 0.1% of these outpatients (n=433) were diagnosed with adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care and/or cosmetic products. Out of these 433 patients, 223 (51%) presented with adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face (Online supplemental Fig. 1). The demographic data of these 223 patients are detailed in Table 1.
Table 1.
Gender | N | Age Range (yr) | Mean ± SEM |
---|---|---|---|
Females | 204 | 4~75 | 31.21 ± 0.76 |
Males | 19 | 18~65 | 36.05 ± 3.38 |
Total | 223 | 4~75 | 31.62 ± 0.75 |
Most patients (82%) experienced pruritus (Table 2). Approximately 50% of patients suffered from a feeling of tautness. Neither age nor gender were associated with cutaneous symptoms induced by skin care products (Tables 2 and 3, Fig. 2a and 3a).
Table 2.
Age | Burning | Itching | Pain | Tautness |
---|---|---|---|---|
≤20 (n=22) | 11 (50%) | 19 (86%) | 1(5%) | 11 (50%) |
21–30 (n=110) | 35 (32%) | 87 (79%) | 14 (13%) | 49 (45%) |
31–40 (n=47) | 23 (49%) | 41 (87%) | 7 (15%) | 30 (64%) |
41–50 (n=30) | 9 (30%) | 24 (80%) | 1 (3%) | 14 (47%) |
>50 (n=14) | 5 (36%) | 12 (86%) | 1 (7%) | 6 (43%) |
Overall 4–75 (N=223) | 83 (37%) | 183 (82%) | 24 (11%) | 110(49%) |
P values | NS | NS | NS | NS |
Chi-square test
Table 3.
Gender | |||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Clinical Signs | Acne | Dry | Edema | Erythema | Papule | Folliculitis | Telangiectasia | Others | Average number of signs/subject |
|
|||||||||
Females (n=204) | 40 (20%) | 111 (54%) | 94 (46%) | 162 (79%) | 44 (23%) | 27 (13%) | 30 (15%) | 44 (23%) | 2.16 ± 0.06 |
Males (n=19) | 3 (1%) | 13 (68%) | 13 (68%) | 17 (89%) | 2 (11%) | 2 (11%) | 1 (5%) | 4 (20%) | 2.26 ± 0.18 |
P values | NS | NS | 0.0623 | NS | NS | NS | NS | NS | NS |
Symptoms | Burning | Itching | Pain | Tautness | Others | Average number of symptoms/subject | |||
|
|||||||||
Females (n=204) | 78 (38%) | 168 (82%) | 22 (11%) | 99 (49%) | 1 (0.5%) | 2.35 ± 0.05 | |||
Males (n=19) | 5 (26%) | 15 (79%) | 2 (11%) | 11 (58%) | 0 | 2.42 ± 0.21 | |||
P values | NS | NS | NS | NS | NS | NS |
Chi-square test
Concerning clinical signs, 179 patients (80%) showed erythema and 48% edema (Table 4). Other clinical features included vesicles, plaque formation and both hyper- and hypopigmentation, together accounting for ≈20%. Occurrence both of edema and xerosis was associated with age (P=.0001), while acne-like lesion were more common in young patients (P=.028). Papules tended to increase with age (P=0.087), while gender was not associated (Fig. 3b).
Table 4.
Age | Acne-like | Xerosis | Edema | Erythema | Papule | Folliculitis | Telangiectasia | Others |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
≤20 (n=22) | 5 (23%) | 11 (50%) | 8 (36%) | 19 (86%) | 1 (5%) | 2 (1%) | 3 (14%) | 2 (1%) |
21–30 (n=110) | 28 (25%) | 56 (51%) | 43 (39%) | 86 (78%) | 21 (19%) | 19 (17%) | 15 (24%) | 28 (25%) |
31–40 (n=47) | 6 (13%) | 25 (53%) | 24 (51%) | 36 (77%) | 14 (30%) | 6 (13%) | 10 (21%) | 10 (21%) |
41–50 (n=30) | 2 (7%) | 22 (73%) | 21 (70%) | 26 (87%) | 6 (20%) | 1 (3%) | 2 (7%) | 7 (23%) |
>50 (n=14) | 2 (14%) | 10 (71%) | 11 (79%) | 12 (86%) | 4 (29%) | 1 (7%) | 1 (7%) | 0 |
Overall 4–75 (N=223) | 43 (19%) | 124 (56%) | 107 (48%) | 179 (80%) | 46 (21%) | 29 (13%) | 31 (14%) | 45 (20%) |
P values | NS | NS | .003 | NS | NS | NS | NS | NS |
P for trend | .028 | .027 | .0001 | .087 |
Chi-square test
Over 40% of patients (95 cases) had ≥ 3 different types of symptoms, and 45 subjects (20%) developed ≥ 3 different types of lesions. Analysis showed subjects’ age correlated with neither the number of different symptoms nor different types of lesions. In contrast, the number of different types of patients’ symptoms correlated positively with the number of different types of lesions (r2=0.023, P=.024). Hence, patients with a higher number of different types of lesions also reported more symptoms. With regard to the causative product brands, 53% of the products were domestic brands, while 46% were overseas brands.
4. Discussion
Although all skin care products must pass safety tests before being deployed in the market, incidences of adverse reactions appear to be increasing recently (1) and may have been underestimated (19). In certain regions, the incidence can be as high as 14% (20). Although we cannot specify the incidence of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products in the general population of Guangzhou city, China, the 0.1 % frequency among all outpatients in a general dermatology clinic is high enough to point attention to the safety of skin care products. Impaired skin condition or certain co-existent dermatoses, such as atopic dermatitis, could contribute to the development of adverse reactions (21, 22), but ingredients in skin care products appear primarily responsible for induction of these reactions. Although we did not further investigate patients by patch testing to identify the responsible ingredients, certain substances, such as stearic acid, ceteareth 20, PEG-40 castor oil and PEG-100 stearate, can induce inflammation and development of clinical signs and symptoms, particularly at higher concentrations (23–26). Also some naturally derived ingredients, such as balsams, or aloe and cucumber, may also cause adverse cutaneous reactions (27, 28). Evidently, preservatives are also on the list of potentially harmful ingredients in skin care products (29–32) which are now considered an import case of contact dermatitis (19). This evidence, taken together, suggests that skin care products are not necessarily safe, and special caution should be taken when using them, particularly in individuals with compromised skin conditions, such as atopic, aged, lightly pigmented or glucocorticoid-treated skin.
In the present study, we show that over 80% of affected patients experienced itching, and 56% had xerosis. Both erythema and edema, signs of contact dermatitis, were the major clinical features of harmful reactions induced by skin care products. We could not differentiate between allergic or irritant reactions, but these could account for equal portions of dermatitis (33). Consistent with previous findings (20), we also observed that a substantial portion of patients had acne (19%) and telangiectasia (14%), which likely due to long term usage of products containing steroids because certain common skin care products contain steroids (34–37), which can cause acne (38). It appeared that more females had acne than males, but the difference was not significant, possibly due to small number of male subjects. Interestingly, our results demonstrate that age, but not gender, is associated with the clinical signs of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products. It is no surprise that more patients over 40 years of age developed xerosis because sebum content, which regulates stratum corneum hydration levels, on the face begins to decline at ≈40 years of age (39–41). Moreover, aged epidermis displays a reduction in expression levels of filaggrin (42), which is degraded into urocanic acid, a moisturizer in the skin. Furthermore, reduced sweat gland activity and amino acid content in the stratum corneum can also contribute to dryness in the aged (43,44). Thus, these alterations in cutaneous function can make skin more vulnerable to develop xerosis if challenged by topical agents. The increased occurrence of edema in older patients is likely due to age-dependent increased vascular permeability (45, 46). Nevertheless, the present study demonstrates that age is a determinant of clinical signs of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products. It is worthwhile noting that the proportion of adverse cutaneous reactions induced by domestic branded skin care products was not greater than that induced by overseas branded although the latter costs more, suggesting pricing is not associated with safety.
In summary, the present study demonstrates that the prevalence of adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face is relatively high, and that age is a contributor to the risk of these reactions. More effective and vigorous safety testing in both normal and diseased skin should be undertaken before skin care products are marketed to the general public.
Supplementary Material
Acknowledgments
This work was supported in part by the National Institute of Arthritis, Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases of the National Institutes of Health (2R01AR061106-06A1), administered by the Northern California Institute for Research and Education, with additional resources provided by The Veterans Affairs Medical Center, San Francisco, California. This content is solely the responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily represent the official views of either the National Institutes of Health or the Department of Veterans Affairs.
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